![]() What about reliability? If a dog learns a hand signal more quickly, and that learning is strong enough to override a verbal command, are the trade-offs worth it? There may be some truth and benefit to that in the beginning when commands are still somewhat new. Again, a hand signal isn’t practical, but a verbal cue can be responded to. ![]() Another real-world example is if your dog is simply in another room of the house. In this situation, a clear, precise verbal command can be heard and understood by your dog. While your dog is chasing that squirrel toward the road, you have no way to command them to come back with hand signals. Most dogs are going to be distracted by things at some point, at least to a certain extent. In a controlled training environment this is easier to achieve, but out in the real world, how can you be sure that your dog will be looking at you every time you want to give a command, and not the other dog across the street or the Frisbee flying through the park? A verbal command can be used as long as your dog is within earshot, no matter which way they are looking. Any visual command is only useful if your dog is actively looking at you. While a hand signal or body cue is a quick way to learn, there are some practical limitations to relying on them. So, why do they use them, and should you use them with your dog?ĭogs will generally learn a hand signal faster than a verbal command. Many trainers and owners use some form of hand signal, although the exact signals used vary greatly. This way when you do start proper dummy work the youngster has already got used to watching you and your hands whenever an instruction is issued.There is loads of research out there to show us that dogs learn very well from visual cues and body language. When the pup is first taken for walks on a lead and is told to hup/sit you should always follow it up with a hand signal.Start to teach hand signals from the word go by pointing to the kennel when you want the puppy to go in, or get in the back of a truck.Over time, when the dog is steady to the stop whistle, you will be able to stop the dog, throw a dummy and be able to handle the dog on to a retrieve accordingly.You can start to change the distance and the direction of the placed dummy, then progress to a thrown dummy.Position yourself about 10 yards directly in front of the dog, affirm the stay command vocally and with a hand signal, then gesture with an outstretched arm and a vocal command that instructs the dog to go in the direction of the dummy and retrieve it.At the start of this exercise, place - rather than throw - a dummy about 10 yards to the right or left along the hedge.Begin with the dog sitting with its back to a hedge.While gundog hand signals to achieve control at distance are certainly not one of the early training goals, the skill isn’t difficult to master once you’re sure you have built a close rapport with your dog.ĭepending on the kind of dog work you intend to do, you may know that it needs to be trained… But there is also a lot you can do for yourself. I would certainly join a gundog training club where you will find ample experience to lay the foundation skills for your new dog. Secondly, you know your own limitations and are clearly ready to take advice from the start and not blunder along until you end up having to correct errors. ![]() The first thing in your favour is that you have a dog that is willing to listen and learn, so you will be able to capitalise on this. ![]() I want to be able to handle him on game at a distance, but will I find training him to hand signals a difficult job? I am a real novice when it comes to training. ![]() My new youngster is a different type of dog and seems more willing to learn. I wasn’t very experienced, so he more or less taught himself. Q: My previous Labrador was a great picking-up dog, but I didn’t really do a lot of formal training with him. ![]()
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